Love Puglia | Puglia itinerary guide

Plan the perfect Puglia itinerary | essential Puglia day trip and road trip guide.

Most Puglia itineraries look the same: Instagram-famous towns, crowded beaches, and a rushed checklist of must-sees. But we don’t all travel alike. Some come solo, others with partners, friends, or family – each with different expectations and pace. That’s why we don’t believe in a “one size fits all” Puglia itinerary.

A Puglia itinerary, your way

Our approach is different. Instead of prescribing a fixed route, we break Puglia – and nearby Matera in Basilicata – into building blocks so you can design a trip that matches your style. We show you how destinations connect, so you can travel efficiently without feeling rushed. Whether you want a quick getaway, a slow immersive stay, or to fit in as much as possible, our guides are flexible, honest, and rooted in lived experience.

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In this guide, we suggest creating a Puglia itinerary as day trips starting from your chosen base.

Some of our Puglia itinerary combos assume you have your own transport, but many can also be done by train or bus. For practical advice, see our Puglia Guys Public Transport in Puglia guide.

Follow us on Instagram for frequent video stories, reels, photos, ideas and other information to inspire your visit to Puglia.

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Plan the perfect Puglia itinerary | Orientation

Puglia is known as la terra tra due mari – the land between two seas – nestled between the Adriatic to the east and the Ionian to the west.

Our region stretches from the mountainous, verdant Gargano Peninsula in the north – the “spur” of Italy’s boot, where dramatic limestone cliffs plunge into the deep blue of the Adriatic – to Santa Maria di Leuca at the very tip of the heel, known as Finibus Terrae, land’s end.

In the 400km between, you’ll find one of the most geographically diverse regions in Italy. The vast Tavoliere plain near Foggia, carpeted with golden fields of durum wheat, gives way to the rolling olive groves of the Valle d’Itria, the sprawling vineyards around Manduria, and the prickly pear cactus-lined vistas of the Salento peninsula.

Plan the perfect Puglia itinerary | Architecture

Discover Puglia’s iconic trulli – whimsical, cone-shaped dwellings found nowhere else in Italy. Explore ancient masserie, once fortified farmhouses built to defend against bandits and Saracen raids, now transformed into elegant boutique stays.

Visit the città bianche – white-walled hill towns with historic centres that wind through mazes of whitewashed alleys and circle around striking cathedrals. Their resemblance to Greece is no coincidence. The Salento peninsula was once part of Magna Grecia – Greater Greece – and the influence is still felt today.

Plan the perfect Puglia itinerary | Food

Puglia is the breadbasket of Italy. Our fertile red soil and Mediterranean climate make the region one of the country’s top producers of durum wheat, olive oil, and wine. Puglia produces nearly 40% of Italy’s olive oil, is its second largest wine region, and is the birthplace of burrata.

If you’re a food lover, why not plan a Puglia itinerary around food?

Slow food isn’t a trend – it’s tradition. Puglia’s cucina povera (“poor cuisine”) relies on seasonal, local produce, turning just a few humble ingredients into dishes full of flavour. Nothing is wasted, and simplicity is key.

You’ll eat well almost anywhere. While fine dining exists, some of the most memorable meals come from modest trattorie and osterie — simple, affordable, and unforgettable.

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Plan the perfect Puglia itinerary | bitesize Puglia

This guide suggests how to visit Puglia’s popular destinations as day trips from a different base, helping you plan efficiently while embracing the region’s slower rhythm of life – the dolce far niente that makes people fall in love with it. We include combinations and road trips, ideal for linking destinations and exploring at your own pace.

Our timings are only suggestions, designed so you can see the essentials and move on without feeling you’ve missed out. Take more or less time, or swap a morning visit for a leisurely lunch and afternoon stroll. Just keep in mind la pausa: from about 1pm to 4.30/5pm many restaurants and shops close; lunch service usually ends around 2.30pm, and in smaller towns closures often last until evening.

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Puglia itinerary | Bari – old town walk, food & easy day trips

Best for: Food lovers, history buffs, street life
Time needed: A half-day to explore wonderful Bari Vecchia with its confusing orientation. Staying a night or two there will do justice to the great cuisine available.

Why go
More than just a gateway, Bari is a city where daily life still spills onto the streets. Its old town, Bari Vecchia, is a labyrinth of stone alleys, draped washing, and the irresistible sight of nonne rolling orecchiette by hand.

Start with food
Kick things off at Panificio Fiore, a bakery dating back to 1508, for a slab of tomato-topped focaccia barese. Prefer more bustle? Join the queue at Panificio Santa Rita, a local favourite.

What to see
From here, it’s a short walk to the Basilica di San Nicola, a place of pilgrimage for Catholics and Orthodox Christians alike, then on to the towering Castello Svevo. Double back through the old town to Strada delle Orecchiette, where pasta-making is pure street theatre. Take a coffee break in a sun-drenched piazza, then stop for gelato at Gelateria Gentile, a Bari institution.

Street life and snacks
By late afternoon, follow your appetite. Snack on fried polenta fritters in Largo Albicocca, sample raw seafood at the Porto Vecchio fish market, or join the line at El Chiringuito for a panzerotto and a cold Peroni. For a proper sit-down, order spaghetti all’assassina at Al Sorso Preferito (lunchtime only), or ask for it off-menu at La Locanda dell’Elfo in the evening.

Shopping & culture
Bari’s squares are as much about atmosphere as they are about shopping. Pass through Piazza Mercantile and Piazza del Ferrarese, where locals gather and the old town meets the modern city. For something to take home, step into the Puglia Design Store, showcasing contemporary Made in Puglia ceramics, textiles, and other locally crafted products that travel well.

Food lovers should dive into Bari Vecchia’s salumerie. Visit a local deli for cheeses and cured meats to take home, or order an on-the-spot panino or charcuterie plate by choosing from the counter — then add taralli, olives and other sides for a ready-made feast. Our favourites include Salumeria Meraviglie (Str. Arco Meraviglia, 7, just by Bari’s own “Juliette” balcony) and Antica Salumeria Di Nicola Lapesara (Strada Bianchi-Dottula). And even if you don’t go inside, stroll past Nino – il Salumiere on Strada Vallisa and see if you can resist.

Transport & parking
We always try to park at Molo San Nicola where you find by El Chiringuito. It’s pay parking, and you’ll need to input your car licence plate (registration) number — so have it handy before using the machine. Approaching from the south, driving into Bari is surprisingly straightforward: come off the Adriatic Highway just as it becomes the Bari tangenziale (Via Bari, the highway exit is marked Bari Lungomare/Bari S. Giorgio/Fiera del Levante/Triggiano). From there, follow the lungomare for an easy, picturesque drive straight to the parking on Molo San Nicola.

If you’re arriving by train, Bari Centrale is the region’s main rail hub with direct services north to Foggia, south to Lecce, and inland to Matera and the Valle d’Itria. From the station, it’s a 15-minute walk into Bari Vecchia along Via Sparano da Bari, the city’s main shopping precinct.

More
For a deeper orientation, see our Puglia Guys Bari Guide, and for a dedicated food and restaurant guide check-out our Eat Bari guide, and our dedicated feature on spaghetti all’assassina — Bari’s cult pasta dish.

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Puglia itinerary | combo day trips from Bari

Bari, Trani & Castel del Monte

From Bari, plan an excellent Puglia itinerary with a day trip that pairs the elegant port town of Trani with the extraordinary Castel del Monte, Frederick II’s octagonal 13th-century fortress in the Murge hills.

We suggest going first to Trani (about 40 minutes by train or car). This way you can enjoy a relaxed seafood lunch by the harbour, followed by a stroll around the Cattedrale di San Nicola Pellegrino, the Castello Svevo, and the old Jewish quarter. The town is at its liveliest around midday, and you’ll appreciate exploring the waterfront before the heat of the afternoon.

From Trani, continue inland (about 45 minutes by car) to Castel del Monte. Visiting in the late afternoon makes sense: the site is quieter after the lunch crowds, and the shifting light across the surrounding hills adds to the drama of the setting.

Return to Bari in the evening (about 1 hour).

This order works better than the reverse: Castel del Monte has little in the way of food options, so saving Trani for lunch avoids the need for a detour, and lets you finish with the castle at its most atmospheric.

Bari, Altamura, Gravina & Matera

From Bari, one of the most rewarding inland day trips combines Altamura, Gravina in Puglia, and Matera.

Start mid-morning with a 45-minute drive or FAL train ride to Altamura, the city of bread. Visit the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta in Cielo, then step inside Antico Forno Santa Chiara to see one of Italy’s oldest wood-fired bakeries and taste focaccia or the famous Pane di Altamura.

From here it’s only 15 minutes to Gravina in Puglia. Cross the dramatic stone bridge over the ravine — which doubled as Matera in the No Time To Die opening sequence — and visit the Concattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta. For lunch, we recommend Trattoria Mamma Mia, a local favourite with an interesting backstory linking Gravina to Glasgow.

Continue another 30 minutes to Matera, the stunning city of the Sassi. Spend the afternoon exploring its winding alleys, churches, and viewpoints before returning to Bari in the evening.

That said, Matera is well worth an overnight stay. As the sun sets and the day-trippers leave, the Sassi glow golden and the city feels magical. Staying overnight lets you experience Matera at its quietest and most atmospheric.

More
Take a deeper dive into Gravina with the Puglia Guys Gravina in Puglia city guide.

Bari old town & Adriatic coast

If you’re short on time, combine a half-day in Bari with an afternoon on the coast. Spend the morning in Bari Vecchia, wandering the alleys, visiting the Basilica di San Nicola, and tasting focaccia. After lunch, hop on the train (20–30 minutes) to Polignano a Mare or Monopoli for a swim, gelato, and aperitivo before returning to the city in the evening (see the day trip guides below for food and drink suggestions).

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Matera

Take a full day to explore the city of the Sassi in the neighbouring region of Basilicata.

Set aside a full day to explore Matera, the extraordinary city of the Sassi in neighbouring Basilicata. Wandering its winding lanes and stairways is part of the experience – though it’s easy to take a wrong turn and end up on an unexpected detour. Don’t count on GPS here: in Matera’s multi-level maze, it’s as confused as we are!

We suggest a walking route that links the main sights of the Sassi, which can be covered in 2–3 hours depending on how long you linger. Streets are steep and uneven, so wear comfortable shoes and bring water and sunscreen.

Think of your walk in four stages:

1. Piazza Vittorio Veneto → Piazza Duomo – a gentle climb, steeper near the cathedral.
2. Piazza Duomo → Piazza San Pietro Caveoso – descending through the Sassi.
3. Piazza San Pietro Caveoso → Piazza Pascoli – heading uphill again.
4. Piazza Pascoli → Piazza Vittorio Veneto – more or less level.

You can start anywhere and walk in either direction. If you’re staying in the Sassi, beginning at Piazza San Pietro Caveoso and working your way up may make more sense.

What to see

• Casa Grotta nei Sassi di Matera – a simple but fascinating insight into cave life. The €5 ticket includes an audio guide you access on your smartphone.
• Gelateria I Vizi degli Angeli – unmissable. Try the lavender ice cream if it’s in season, or the Aperol Spritz ice lolly if you spot it.

Festival tip
Matera’s city festival takes place on 2nd July. The climax is the chaotic destruction of the festival float – a tradition dating back to the Saracen occupation, when locals preferred to smash their own religious icons rather than see them desecrated by invaders. It’s noisy, crowded, and unforgettable.

Transport & parking
Matera is served by the regional Ferrovie Appulo Lucane (FAL) line from Bari (about 90 minutes). Trains leave from the FAL station next to Bari Centrale in Piazza Aldo Moro. Some services split at Altamura, so you may need to change trains or be in the right carriage. The route passes through the dramatic Murge hills and towns like Altamura and Gravina. Tickets are sold at stations, machines, or local bars/newsagents.

Driving is faster: around 45 minutes from Bari Airport, under an hour from Bari Centrale, and about 1h15 from Taranto. From Lecce (via Brindisi and Taranto) allow around 2h15. Roads are mostly dual carriageway, though the stretch just after Taranto is a mix, and slow! After Massafra take the highway (SS100) or preferably the toll road (E843) for Bari. They run almost parallel, although the toll road is much quieter and costs around €6 to the Matera exit). From the Valle d’Itria we drive cross country through the Parco Naturale Regionale Terra delle Gravine, via Martina Franca and Mottola, a scenic route.

More
Discover Matera in depth with the Puglia Guys Matera city guide.

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Trani

Known as the Pearl of the Adriatic, Trani makes a brilliant day trip from Bari, Barletta, or even the Valle d’Itria if you don’t mind a longer drive. This elegant port town combines a working fishing harbour with a refined seafront atmosphere — and some of the most beautiful Romanesque architecture in southern Italy.

What to see

• Cattedrale di San Nicola Pellegrino – Trani’s iconic waterfront cathedral, built in creamy local limestone, rises almost directly from the Adriatic. Its bronze doors and crypt are highlights, and the sea views from the square in front are unforgettable.
• Castello Svevo – Built by Frederick II, this sturdy fortress stands guard at the harbour entrance. Inside are exhibitions on Trani’s medieval history.
• Jewish Quarter – A reminder of Trani’s role as a medieval trading hub, with synagogues that survived conversion into churches.
• Harbour & Lungomare – Perfect for a stroll, watching fishermen bring in their catch, or stopping for a seafood lunch.

Food & drink
Trani is renowned for seafood. Local staples include crudo (raw fish and shellfish), fritto misto, and risotto ai frutti di mare. For a glass of something local, try Moscato di Trani, a sweet golden wine produced from nearby vineyards. You’ll find restaurant recommendations in our Puglia Guys Trani Guide.

Practical tips

Allow half a day to explore the main sights, but stay longer if you want a leisurely lunch by the harbour.

Trains from Bari take about 40 minutes, making Trani an easy excursion by public transport.

Driving is just as quick along the SS16, with parking available around the port and marina.

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Polignano a Mare

Two to three hours includes eating time without swimming. Allow a half day to include bathing. 

Polignano a Mare is famous for its dramatic clifftop setting and the iconic Lama Monachile beach. The smooth pebbles make it less comfortable for sunbathing, but nothing beats swimming out between the cliffs or into the cave beneath the old town — one of Puglia’s most unforgettable experiences.

How to combine it
From an Ostuni base, a perfect day trip runs: Alberobello in the morning (40 mins), lunch in Monopoli (25 mins), then Polignano (10 mins) for a swim, gelato, and coffee before heading back to Ostuni (40 mins via the Adriatic highway). Reverse the order if you want to swim before lunch.
From Bari, you can easily do the same loop — Alberobello first, then Monopoli, finishing in Polignano.

What to see
The best views of Polignano are:

• Ponte Borbonico su Lama Monachile – looking down onto the beach.
• Belvedere Terrazza su Lama Monachile – old town side, facing the cliffs.
• Belvedere Terrazza Santo Stefano – out across the Adriatic.

Take the steps on the far side of the bridge down to the water. Swimming here is unforgettable, though be warned: those pebbles are punishing for tender feet!

Where to eat & drink

• Lunch: Pescaria (Piazza Aldo Moro, 6/8) – famous for its seafood panini. Arrive before 12.30pm or after 2.30pm to avoid the queue.
• Gelato & Coffee: Mario Campanella “Il Super Mago del Gelo” (Piazza Garibaldi, 22). Try the house “special coffee” — it’s legendary.

Getting there by train
Polignano is on the Adriatic mainline (Trenitalia) between Bari, Monopoli, Ostuni and Brindisi, with frequent regional trains. Even if you have a car, we strongly recommend taking the train — especially in July, August, and September — when the town is crowded and parking can be stressful. The station is a 10-minute walk from both the old town and Lama Monachile beach, making it by far the easiest way to visit.

Parking
If you do drive, paid parking around Piazza Aldo Moro is central but often full. In that case, head up towards the railway station, where spaces are usually easier to find.

More
Discover Polignano in depth with our Puglia Guys city guide to Polignano a Mare – eat, swim, walk and shop.

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Monopoli

Allow 2–4 hours to enjoy Monopoli, ideally including lunch.

What to do
Start in Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi, one of the liveliest spots in town and a great place to eat — we like La Dolce Vita Ristorante. After lunch, wander the porto antico to Castello Carlo V, then follow the lungomare along the old sea wall. From Bastione Santa Maria, take the steps down to the seafront and continue past Bastione di Babula to reach Spiaggia Cala Porta Vecchia. From here you can loop back into the compact old town, or turn left to continue along the seafront.

Getting there by train
Monopoli is on the Adriatic mainline (Trenitalia), with frequent regional trains from Bari, Polignano, Ostuni, and Brindisi. Even if you’re driving, we recommend the train in July, August, and September, when the town is busiest and parking can be difficult. The station is about 10 minutes’ walk from the old town.

Parking
If you do drive, we usually park around Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II and walk into the old town. Look for blue lines (pay parking) or white lines (free, but check time limits). From the south, you can also drive straight to the city beaches and park at Parcheggio Pentima.

More
Explore further with our Puglia Guys Monopoli City Guide.

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Alberobello

Allow around two hours to soak up Alberobello — enough time to see the highlights without being overwhelmed.

Many visitors leave feeling underwhelmed, put off by the crowds and heavy commercialisation. The authenticity and charm of trullo life has largely gone. And yet, no trip to Puglia feels complete without seeing Alberobello’s trulli — a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the region’s most famous image.

When to go
Most guides tell you to arrive early to avoid the crowds, but in reality there’s no escaping them — Alberobello fills with coach groups by mid-morning, and even early arrivals find themselves part of the throng. Our advice? Go when it suits you. Mid-morning or after 5pm works well, when the light is soft and the pace more relaxed.

What to see

• Rione Monti – the main trulli district, lined with souvenir shops. Commercial though it is, this is the Alberobello most visitors come for. Walk up Monte S. Michele (coffee and pastry at Martinucci Laboratory, Via Monte S. Michele 57), then continue across Monte S. Gabriele and Monte S. Marco. Job done.
• Rione Aia Piccola – cross Largo Martellotta and climb towards Piazza XXVII Maggio. This quieter district of restored trulli — many now B&Bs — keeps more of its original stonework and character. Wander Via Giuseppe Verdi, detour to Villa Tria on Via Colombo, and follow Via Galileo Galilei and Vico il Duca degli Abruzzi for glimpses of unrestored trulli framed by pine trees. This is the Alberobello that once inspired Pasolini.

Getting there by public transport
Alberobello is connected by the Ferrovie del Sud Est (FSE) train line, with services from Bari (around 1h40), Martina Franca (30 mins), and other Valle d’Itria towns. From Ostuni or Brindisi, the simplest route is usually via Bari or Fasano (train + bus). Services can be patchy, especially on Sundays, so check timetables carefully.

An alternative — and often more straightforward — option is the Trulli Link bus service from Bari, also operated by FSE. It departs from Bari Largo Sorrentino, on the far side of Bari Centrale opposite the main entrance, and takes just over an hour. The service shows up in searches on the Trenitalia/FSE website if you enter “Bari – all stations.”

Parking
If you’re driving, try the top end of Via Cavour (pay parking, blue lines) or turn up Via Cairoli for a chance at free parking (white lines — check time limits). At the other end of town, Parcheggio “Nel Verde” is a convenient paid lot, also suitable for camper vans.
→ For more detail on parking areas, see our Puglia Guys Alberobello Guide.

More’berobello

• Love Me Trulli – the story of Alberobello’s stone dwellings
• Trails of the Unexpected – the Puglia Guys guide to Alberobello’s secret spaces
• Our full Alberobello City Guide

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Combo day trip: Alberobello, Monopoli & Polignano

From our Ostuni base, this is one of our favourite day trips. Start the morning with a scenic drive inland to Alberobello (about 40 minutes, passing through Cisternino and around Locorotondo, a lovely countryside route) and spend a couple of hours wandering among the trulli, with a stop there for coffee and pastries.

From there, head towards the coast – the road down to Monopoli (25 minutes) gives scenic views as you descend towards the Adriatic. Have lunch in the old town, then walk it off along the harbour, the defensive sea walls, and the narrow lanes.

In the afternoon, continue just 10 minutes up the coast to Polignano a Mare. Here we stop for gelato and Mario Campanella‘s “special coffee,” then walk down to Lama Monachile beach and around the clifftop balconies and for those iconic Adriatic views.

Finish with an aperitivo in Polignano’s old town – Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II is perfect for people-watching – before heading back to Ostuni (40 minutes). If you prefer, stay for dinner in Polignano and return later.

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Locorotondo v1

Drive by.

Many of Puglia’s white towns have a similar feel, so there is no need to visit them all. You can drive around the front of Locorotondo when passing by en route to Alberobello or Cisternino to see why it takes that name. 

Locorotondo v2

Compact, immaculate, and perfectly circular, Locorotondo is one of the prettiest towns in the Valle d’Itria. Its name means “round place” — a nod to the concentric layout of the old town, where narrow lanes wind around a hilltop lined with whitewashed houses and wrought-iron balconies overflowing with flowers.

Allow 1–2 hours to stroll, with time for a glass of local wine or coffee.

What to see

• Centro storico – wander the spotless lanes, framed by geraniums, laundry lines, and the pointed pitched roofs of the cummerse, the town’s characteristic narrow terraced houses.
• Chiesa Madre di San Giorgio – the neoclassical parish church, simple but striking in its hilltop setting.
• Belvedere – head to the panoramic terraces on the edge of town for sweeping views over the Valle d’Itria’s patchwork of vineyards, olive groves, trulli, and stone-walled fields.

Eat & drink
Locorotondo is at the heart of one of Puglia’s DOC wine zones, best known for its crisp white wines. Order a glass with lunch or at an enoteca in the old town. For a longer stop, book a wine tasting at a nearby cantina.

Getting there by public transport
Locorotondo is on the FSE railway line between Bari and Martina Franca, with connections to Alberobello and other Valle d’Itria towns. Trains are regular but slow; check timetables carefully, especially on Sundays. From Bari the journey takes around 1h45.
→ For more detail, see our Puglia by Public Transport Guide.

Parking
If driving, head for Via Martina Franca or Via Cisternino, where there are pay-and-display spaces just outside the walls. From here it’s an easy walk into the centro storico.

More Locorotondo

• Our Valle d’Itria itineraries, linking Locorotondo with Alberobello, Cisternino, and Martina Franca.
• Our Eat Puglia guide for enoteca and restaurant suggestions.

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Cisternino

For lunch or dinner.

Perched on a ridge overlooking the Valle d’Itria, Cisternino is a small whitewashed town with a big reputation for food. It’s especially famous for its fornelli pronto – butcher shops that double as restaurants, where you choose your meat and have it grilled on the spot.

Allow 2–3 hours, ideally timed for lunch or dinner.

What to eat
The must-try dish is bombette – little pork rolls stuffed with cheese and herbs, cooked over the embers of the braceria grills. We like Al Vecchio Fornello, one of the most traditional spots in town.

What to do
After your meal, wander the compact centro storico with its narrow lanes and whitewashed houses. If you’re there during the day, stop at Cremeria History Vignola for coffee, a gelato, or a pastry, and enjoy the panoramic views across the valley.

Getting there by public transport
Cisternino has its own FSE (Ferrovie del Sud Est) commuter train station, just a few minutes’ walk from the old town, with services connecting Bari, Locorotondo, Alberobello, and Martina Franca. This makes it an easy stop if you’re exploring the Valle d’Itria by train.
Be aware that there is also a Cisternino Trenitalia station on the Bari–Brindisi main line, about 11 km from town, which is not convenient unless you arrange onward transport.
→ For more detail, see our Puglia Guys Public Transport Guide.

Parking
Pay parking is available just outside the historic centre, right by Cremeria History Vignola. If spaces are full, continue down Via Principe Amedeo and loop back around — you’ll usually find something.

More Cisternino

See our Eat Puglia guide for more braceria recommendations.

Combine with Locorotondo and Martina Franca for a full Valle d’Itria loop.

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Martina Franca

The elegant baroque capital of the Valle d’Itria, Martina Franca is larger and grander than its neighbours. Its centro storico is a maze of whitewashed alleys punctuated by ornate palazzi, wrought-iron balconies, and churches with striking baroque façades. The town has a more local feel than Alberobello or Ostuni, and it’s an excellent place to experience Puglia’s everyday rhythms alongside its architectural splendour.

Allow half a day – morning or afternoon with lunch or dinner.

What to do

• Basilica di San Martino – the showpiece of the town, with a dazzling 18th-century baroque façade and richly decorated interior.
• Centro storico – lose yourself in winding lanes, passing the gates of the old town (Porta di Santo Stefano, Porta di San Nicola). Look out for noble palazzi like Palazzo Ducale, which hosts exhibitions and cultural events.
• Piazza Plebiscito – the heart of the old town, lined with cafés and overlooked by San Martino. Perfect for a coffee or aperitivo stop.
• Palazzo Ducale – originally a 17th-century ducal palace, today housing the town hall and exhibitions; check if any temporary shows are on during your visit.

Eat & drink
Martina Franca is known for its capocollo, a cured pork specialty with Slow Food recognition. You’ll find it on antipasto plates and in local butchers’ shops. For a sit-down meal, trattorie and osterie around the centro storico offer hearty Valle d’Itria cooking. See our Puglia Guys Martina Franca guide for restaurant recommendations.

Getting there

• By train: Martina Franca is served by the FSE (Ferrovie del Sud Est) network, but trains from Bari are rarely direct. They often involve a change at Putignano or Alberobello and take a meandering route through the Valle d’Itria. The station is about a 10–15 minute walk from the centro storico. It’s a scenic ride if you have time, but not the fastest option.
• By car: Around 30 minutes from Ostuni, 20 minutes from Alberobello, 45 minutes from Taranto, and just over an hour from Bari. Parking is easiest around Piazza d’Angiò or along Via Taranto, both a short walk from the historic centre.

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Ostuni

The Città Bianca, or “White City,” is one of Puglia’s most photographed towns. Its whitewashed old town rises above a sea of olive groves that stretches down to the Adriatic, with winding alleys, stairways, and sweeping views.

Allow half a day to explore.

What to do
Start with lunch at the excellent family-run Osteria Ostuni Bistrot on Piazza della Libertà. Be careful not to confuse it with the neighbouring Petit Bistrot (formerly Pizzeria Codice a Barre) — it’s Ostuni Bistrot you’re after.

From here, climb into the centro storico. Explore the maze of whitewashed alleys as you make your way up to the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta and pass under the graceful Arco Scoppa.

Have a gelato at the corner gelateria by the cathedral, then continue through the narrow streets to Ostuni’s best-known viewpoints:

• The panoramic terrace over the olive groves.
• La Porta Blu — a private rental apartment with a blue door that has become Ostuni’s most photographed selfie spot.

For an afternoon aperitivo, we like Borgo Antico Bistrot — tables here have wonderful views, and prices are fair given the location. From La Porta Blu you can either:

• Turn left and head down to the Chiesa Rettoria di Santa Maria della Stella, then walk along Viale Oronzo Quaranta, following Ostuni’s old defensive walls.
• Or loop back through the alleys to Via Cattedrale and descend to Piazza della Libertà.

Getting there
Ostuni is on the Adriatic mainline (Trenitalia) between Bari and Brindisi/Lecce, served by frequent regional trains (about 50 minutes from Bari, 20 minutes from Brindisi, and 1h10 from Lecce).

The station is approximately 3 km from the old town. From here:

• Bus: the local shuttle runs between the station and Ostuni’s historic centre (at Parcheggio Tenente Specchia). It’s timed with some trains, but not all – check our Puglia Guys Ostuni Guide which has posted timetables and links.
• Taxi: taxis usually wait outside the station; the ride into town takes about 5 minutes. If none are available, you may need to call one (numbers are included in our Ostuni Guide).
• On foot: it’s technically walkable in 30–40 minutes, and many do. But the road is busy and the climb steep – and even though a dedicated pedestrian route has been included as part of a road and station upgrade, we don’t recommend it.

Parking
Parking in Ostuni can be tight in summer. We usually look in Via Giosuè Pinto, just below the centro storico and around Parco Rimembranze. From there it’s a short walk up (or down) to Piazza della Libertà. There are also larger pay car parks on the edge of town. See our Puglia Guys Ostuni Guide for more details.

More Ostuni

• Eat like a local: our Ostuni restaurant guide.
• Our full Ostuni City Guide with shopping, beaches, and where to stay.

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Ceglie Messapica

With an attractive town centre and a centro storico that feels less curated for tourists and more lived-in, Ceglie Messapica offers a different flavour to neighbouring Ostuni. It’s one of the Valle d’Itria’s lesser-visited towns for foreign tourists, though Italians know it well for its culinary excellence.

One of the oldest towns in Puglia, Ceglie’s roots stretch back over 2,000 years, with fragments of its ancient Messapian walls still visible. Today, it’s best explored slowly, with time set aside to enjoy a meal — from humble osterie to acclaimed restaurants.

Allow half a day, ideally timed for lunch or dinner.

What to do

• Centro storico – wander the tangle of whitewashed lanes, small piazzas, and quiet corners. The atmosphere is authentic, everyday, and less manicured than nearby towns.
• Castello Ducale – the restored ducal castle dominates the old town, with exhibitions and cultural events.
• Chiesa Matrice di Santa Maria Assunta – rebuilt in the 18th century on the site of an earlier Norman church.
• Messapian walls – fragments of the ancient fortifications are still visible just outside the centre.

Eat & drink
Ceglie is renowned for its food. Look for traditional trattorie and innovative restaurants that have made the town a local gastronomic hub. Don’t miss:

• Biscotto di Ceglie – an almond pastry filled with cherry or grape jam, recognised as a Slow Food product.
• Restaurants range from Michelin-starred to humble osterie; many celebrate the town’s long-standing culinary traditions.

Getting there

• By train: Ceglie Messapica is on the FSE (Ferrovie del Sud Est) line linking Martina Franca and Francavilla Fontana, with onward connections to Bari, Brindisi, and Lecce. From Lecce, change at Francavilla; from Bari, change at Martina Franca. The station is about 1 km from the historic centre — an easy 10–15 minute walk.
• By bus: From Ostuni, the FSE bus departs from Viale dello Sport and takes around 15 minutes. The bus stops near the hospital, just outside the historic centre.
• By car: Ceglie is about 20 minutes from Ostuni, 40 minutes from Brindisi, and just under an hour from Bari. Parking is available around the edge of the centro storico; look near Via San Rocco or Via San Lorenzo.

More Ceglie Messapica

• Eat Puglia: our recommendations for trattorie and restaurants.
• Read our Puglia Guys Ceglie Messapica City Guide.

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Carovigno

For aperitivo and dinner.

A worthwhile change of scenery if you’re staying in nearby Ostuni, Carovigno has a charming old town with restaurants that punch well above their weight. It’s less visited by international tourists, giving it a more relaxed, local feel.

Come in the evening for aperitivo and dinner. Start with drinks at the very lovely – and much Instagrammed – Picci Bar, tucked into the old town’s atmospheric streets. Afterwards, you’ll find plenty of excellent restaurants where the cooking rivals (and often outshines) Ostuni’s better-known dining scene.

Getting there | Just 10 minutes by car or taxi from Ostuni. Carovigno also has an FS station on the Bari–Brindisi line, though it sits about 5 km from the town centre, so you’ll need a bus (see here for services – infrequent) or taxi to connect.

Parking | Use the central pay car park here. You can often park in the adjacent streets, where blue lines mean pay parking and white lines are free (check for local restrictions).

Check out the Puglia Guys Carovigno guide for the best restaurants and bars in Carovigno.

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San Vito dei Normanni

For aperitivo, dinner, and an authentic pizzica experience.

Summer nights in Salento have a unique energy. The afternoon stillness gives way to evenings alive with the rhythm of pizzica – the traditional dance music of Salento.

San Vito dei Normanni is one of the beating hearts of this tradition. For a true taste of it, head to Strato Bar, a lively local haunt for aperitivi and bar food, where open-air pizzica music and dancing often unfold. If you’d prefer a sit-down dinner, the excellent xFood restaurant shares the same location.

For a guaranteed night of music and dancing, join the crowd at Antiko Cocktail Bar, where Thursday evenings often bring live pizzica and spontaneous street dancing alongside great bar food.

Getting there | San Vito dei Normanni is about 15 km south of Ostuni, between Carovigno and Mesagne. It’s best reached by car or taxi, as public transport options are limited in the evening.

More | The San Vito Feeling – the Puglia Guys Guide to taking part in pizzica nights in Puglia.

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Brindisi

Half day – history, harbour, and a walk through time

Once one of the busiest ports in the ancient world, Brindisi was a hub of Roman naval power and maritime trade. The Via Appia ended here, Crusaders departed from here, and for eight months during the Second World War, Brindisi was even Italy’s capital. Today it is much less visited than Bari or Lecce, but no less fascinating – and all the easier to reach thanks to its central location on the Trenitalia Adriatic line, almost halfway between the two. The railway station sits right on the main boulevard Corso Umberto I, an attractive palm-tree lined avenue leading you straight down to the port and lungomare.

What to do

• Lungomare – Brindisi has a relaxed, understated seafront promenade. From here you can hop on a boat taxi across the harbour to the striking National Sailor Monument.
• Roman Brindisi – see the Colonne Romane, the twin columns that once marked the end of the Appian Way. One survives intact; near them stood the house of Virgil, whose name plate is still there.
• Museums – the Museo Archeologico Francesco Ribezzo (by the Duomo) houses an excellent collection of antiquities. The Palazzina del Belvedere offers both a panoramic terrace and the Collezione Archeologica S. Faldetta.
• Architecture & Monuments – wander via the Fascist-era Fontana Vittorio Emanuele III (Fontana Grassi), then up to Piazza Santa Teresa for the monument to the fallen.

Eat & Drink

• For morning coffee, pastries or afternoon gelato: Betty – Gelateria Café Ristorante Pizzeria.
• For lunch: La Locanda del Porto on the lungomare.
• For a lighter meal or pizza, head to Brunda Pizzeria on Piazza Dante, a local favourite.

Getting there
Brindisi is one of the easiest towns in Puglia to visit by public transport. Its central railway station is on the main Bari–Lecce line, and from there it’s an easy 10–15 minute walk down Corso Umberto I to the port.

More | the Puglia Guys Brindisi city guide.

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Lecce

One full day – late breakfast, lazy lunch, and Baroque beauty

Start with a typical Lecce breakfast on the main piazza: a warm pasticciotto (custard-filled pastry) and a caffè leccese(iced coffee with almond syrup). Prefer savoury? Go for a rustico leccese, puff pastry filled with béchamel, tomato, and mozzarella.

Spend the morning wandering the historic centre – a Baroque maze within city walls built by Emperor Charles V in the 16th century to guard against Turkish invasions. The centro storico brims with restaurants, lively bars, and independent boutiques.

Highlights

• Up! panoramic lift (new in 2024): an elevator beside the Duomo bell tower, offering sweeping views of Lecce.
• Piazza Sant’Oronzo: admire the Sant’Oronzo Column and the sunken Roman amphitheatre (currently under restoration for improved access). The saint’s statue has been moved to the municipality building on Via Francesco Rubichi.
• Basilica di Santa Croce: Lecce’s most famous church, a dazzling showcase of carved Baroque detail.

Eat & Drink
Lecce is best enjoyed slowly: linger over lunch in the centro storico, whether at a traditional trattoria or a modern kitchen. For aperitivo, join locals in the piazzas as the evening unfolds. Lecce has so many places we love to eat. We list them in the Puglia Guys Lecce city guide.

Getting there
Lecce is the southern terminus of the Trenitalia Adriatic line (Bari–Brindisi–Lecce), making it easy to reach by train from other bases. Trains are frequent, reliable, and avoid the hassle of parking in the busy old town.

Parking
If you’re driving, the best option is to park outside the historic centre and walk in. We usually park around Viale Oronzo Quarta or Via Giuseppe Libertini (blue lines = paid parking; white = free, though check for time limits). From there it’s an easy stroll into the centro storico.

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Puglia itinerary | combo day trips From Lecce

Lecce & the Adriatic coast

If you want to add a coastal adventure to your Lecce day, head east to the Adriatic. In under 20 minutes you can reach San Cataldo, Lecce’s local seaside escape. From there, follow the coast south:

• Grotta della Poesia – a spectacular natural sink hole near Roca Vecchia. A protected archaeological park and despite the images you might see, swimming and bathing are banned. Please respect this, to preserve the site.
• Baia dei Turchi – one of Salento’s loveliest beaches, named after the Turkish raids of the 15th century.
• Otranto – finish the day in this whitewashed coastal town with its stunning cathedral (don’t miss the mosaic floor and chapel of the skulls).

This route pairs Lecce’s Baroque splendour with the dramatic Adriatic coast, giving you both city and sea in one day.

If time allows, enjoy dinner in Otranto before looping back inland to Lecce.

Lecce, Galatina & Gallipoli

From Lecce, head inland first to Galatina (about 30 minutes). The town is famous for its Basilica di Santa Caterina d’Alessandria, with extraordinary 15th-century frescoes often compared to Giotto. Galatina is also the birthplace of pasticciotto, so don’t miss trying one fresh from the oven.

Continue west to the Ionian coast and the lively seaside town of Gallipoli (about 40 minutes). Cross the bridge into the old town on its fortified island, explore the cathedral, wander the narrow streets, and walk the lungomare with its sea views. For lunch, try one of the seafood trattorie tucked into the centro storico.

On the way back to Lecce, stop at Nardò if time allows — a Baroque gem with a relaxed local atmosphere and a handsome piazza, far less visited than Lecce itself.

This loop gives you a mix of inland art and history with Ionian coast charm, all in one easy day from Lecce.

Lecce, Nardò & Porto Selvaggio / Santa Maria al Bagno

From Lecce, drive about 30 minutes to Nardò, a compact Baroque town with an elegant piazza and a quieter, more local feel than Lecce. It’s the perfect place for a coffee break and a short wander.

Continue a little further to the coast for Porto Selvaggio, a protected natural park of pine forest and rocky coves — bring walking shoes if you want to hike down to the water, or just stop for the sweeping sea views. Nearby, the seaside village of Santa Maria al Bagno makes a laid-back lunch stop, with tables overlooking the Ionian.

After a relaxed afternoon, you can either return directly to Lecce or continue south along the coast before looping back inland.

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Grottaglie and Taranto

It is only a 25-minute drive from Grottaglie’s ceramic quarter to Taranto’s borgo antico. Both are surprising and unexpected parts of Puglia that we totally recommend. They may not technically be off the beaten track, but many visitors neglect them. We recommend having a morning coffee and pasticciotto in Grottaglie, then visiting the ceramic stores. Remember they close in the afternoon.

Grottaglie

Grottaglie – half day

You’ll see ceramics all over Puglia, but Grottaglie is the heart of the tradition. For centuries, its artisan potters have produced both everyday tableware and collector’s pieces — some even supplying big-name retailers abroad. The “Quartiere delle Ceramiche” is still alive with workshops, where you can browse, buy, and often meet the makers themselves.

What to Do

• Explore the ceramics quarter – Visit artisan workshops to pick up reasonably priced, functional souvenirs or investment pieces. We regularly shop at:
  • Nicola Fasano (FasanoCeramiche srl) – distinctive, beautiful pieces; smaller items remain good value, while larger ceramics are more of an investment.
  • Antonio Fasano – known for bold green tones and elegant forms, his work is on the higher end but worth it.
  • Cretaglie – excellent value, especially for espresso sets and plates. We often choose face mugs and dishes as quirky gifts.
• Bar delle Ceramiche – perfect for coffee and a sweet break; they usually make their own pasticciotti with rich, creamy filling.
• Stroll the centro storico – Recently renovated in parts, but still with plenty of lived-in character. Grottaglie also has striking street art, thanks to its local art school.

Where to Eat

Two favourites we return to:

• Macchiaviva Bistrot | Via Cavour 13 | +39 099 450 4695
  Our go-to in Grottaglie. Sisters Anna (front of house) and Loredana (kitchen, alongside their mama Carmela) serve thoughtful Puglian cuisine with excellent desserts. Local ingredients and carefully chosen wines complete the picture.
• Trattoria La Luna nel Pozzo | Via L. da Vinci, 4 | +39 373 784 2289
  A husband-and-wife team serve delicious, traditional dishes in the slow food tradition. Warm, unpretentious, and deeply satisfying.

Getting There

• By train/bus: Grottaglie has its own FS station on the Taranto–Brindisi line, making it easy to reach from either city. From Bari or Lecce, change at Taranto or Brindisi. From the station it’s a 10–15 minute walk into the ceramics quarter and old town.
• By car: Grottaglie is just off the SS7 (Taranto–Brindisi highway), about 25 minutes from Taranto and 40 minutes from Brindisi.

Parking

There’s free street parking (white lines) around the old town and ceramics quarter, though spaces can be limited. A more straightforward option is the municipal free car park right inside the ceramics quarter, and the adjacent Parcheggio Largo dell’Accoglienza (also free), both well signposted and easy to access – ideal if you’re coming specifically to visit the workshops.

More

See the Puglia Guys Guide to Grottaglie for more on its ceramics heritage, and art.

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Taranto

A half day to explore Taranto’s borgo antico, including lunch (or dinner).

A visit to Taranto’s borgo antico (old town) is raw, gritty, and unforgettable. Once a great Greek and Roman city, today much of the old quarter is crumbling — yet that’s part of its power. Among the decay are extraordinary fragments of history and some of the region’s best seafood restaurants.

What to See & Do

• Duomo di San Cataldo – step inside to see the stunning marble-encrusted 17th-century apse, one of Puglia’s hidden gems.
• Streets of the borgo antico – wander through alleyways where daily life unfolds, and where whole houses can still be bought for €1.
• Quayside life – follow the trail of water drips down to the boardwalks, where fishermen sell their catch straight off the boats.

Eat: Cozze Tarantine

Taranto is famous for its farmed mussels (cozze tarantine). Served raw with lemon, or steamed in a simple broth, they’re a local obsession. Many of the city’s best restaurants specialise in seafood — freshly landed, prepared simply, and eaten within sight of the sea. For our restaurant recommendations, see our Taranto city guide: troubled Taranto and the beauty underneath.

Getting There

• By train: Taranto is well connected to Bari, Brindisi, and Lecce. The Trenitalia station is only minutes from the edge of the borgo antico, making it easy to explore the old town on foot.
• By car: Taranto sits at the junction of the SS7 (from Brindisi) and SS106 (Calabria). From Brindisi take the Croce exit. From Bari it’s around 1 hr 20 min, from Brindisi 1 hr, and from Lecce about 1 hr 30.

Parking

The borgo antico is best approached with a plan:

• Aim for Piazza Fontana or the car parks on Via Cariati/Via Garibaldi.
• First time around, don’t attempt a full circuit of the borgo antico. Instead:
  1. Drive in through Piazza Fontana and continue along Via Garibaldi.
  2. You’ll come out by the port; turn left down Via Cariati. This will bring you back to where you started.
  3. If you haven’t found a spot by then, pass round Piazza Fontana this time and follow Corso Vittorio Emanuele II all the way round to the far end of the borgo antico, then head down from the top of Via Garibaldi to access the car parks easily.

More

See the Puglia Guys Taranto city guide: Troubled Taranto and the Beauty Underneath for our restaurant picks and deeper dives into its history.

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Gallipoli

Good for a full day trip and spectacular sunsets. 

Take in the old town, enjoy a lazy lunch (and dinner if you have time) followed by a long afternoon on the beach, under the Salento sun. Gallipoli offers breathtaking sunsets. Savour this daily spectacle with a glass of local wine and olives from a rooftop terrace or on a nearby beach.

Take your time to meander through its winding streets, alleys, and hidden corners. Here you can discover the longtime residents going about their daily business, the fishermen mending their nets or weaving lobster pots and fishing baskets.

Spiaggia della Purità – the city beach, half-way around the old town perimeter, is the perfect place to soak up the sun and sea breeze, and to watch the sun set of an evening.

For lunch or dinner, head to La Puritate, a rustic trattoria known for fresh, top quality seafood dishes, all while enjoying the serene views of the sea. The restaurant is next to the Chiesa della Purità, sitting above spiaggia della Purità. Popular with locals, we suggest linguettine alla Puritate as primo (small linguine with small prawns, thin strips of courgette and cherry tomatoes) followed by the theatrical gamberoni al sale. | Via Sant’Elia, 18 | trattorialapuritate.it

Ristorante Il Bastione is a family run restaurant. It’s terrace offers beautiful panoramic views over the sea, and a perfect sunset | Riviera Nazario Sauro, 28 | ilbastionegallipoli.it

Otranto

Spend half the day on one of the city beaches, enjoy a lazy lunch, and the rest of the day sightseeing.

For coffee, gelato and a morning pastry: Martinucci Laboratorio.

City beaches and swimming: all around the port. Just head to the old town. There are beaches outside the centre but we focus on city beaches here.

Sightseeing: stroll around the old town streets, visit Cattedrale di Santa Maria Annunziata (with its historic tree of life mosaic floor, and the gruesome skulls of the beheaded martyrs of Otranto), the Aragonese Castle (the inspiration for the first ever Gothic novel) and, out of town, the Bauxite Cave (a disused quarry).

Eat: we usually choose LaltroBaffo Ristorante, a fish restaurant tending more towards fine dining.

Plan the perfect Puglia itinerary | Puglia Road Trips

Puglia itinerary #1 | Otranto to Santa Maria di Leuca

This is our favourite road trip and we would urge you to include it in your Puglia itinerary. An absolute highlight of a trip to our region, and one we make at least 3 or 4 times each summer.

The route along the coast is one of the most dramatic in Puglia, sandwiched between prickly pear lined cliffs and shimmering sea. This is not the Amalfi. The drive is leisurely, the pace easy.

Time saving tip | If we have been staying in Lecce we head to Otranto, BUT when we come from Ostuni – probably the furthest away we recommend doing this journey as a day trip – we bypass Otranto and head directly to Santa Cesarea Terme to start the drive along the coastal route from there. To save more time, head directly to Castro and start there.

Otranto | Santa Cesarea Terme

Distance | 18 km

Head south via the bauxite cave (la cava di bauxite), less than a 10 minute drive from the centre of Otranto.

A disused quarry and man made lake (bauxite is the main source of aluminium) returned to nature, creating a vividly coloured landscape of emerald green lake and ferrous red soil, framed by the glorious green trees and Puglia’s endless blue sky.

Park in the nearby car park (3€ fee) it is a short walk of a few minutes along a defined path to the bauxite quarry. The morning and late afternoon sun best compliments the colours.

Look out for the nearby Torre del Serpente, the symbol of Otranto. If the weather conditions are clear you can see Albania on the other side of the Adriatic.

On the road again, further along the coast is the Faro di Punta Palascìa lighthouse, a remote 19th-century lighthouse that marks Italy’s most easternmost point.

7.5km north of Santa Cesarea Terme is Porto Badisco.

Santa Cesarea Terme | Santa Maria di Leuca

Distance | 35 km

Choosing your own pace, decide where you might want to stop off, for sightseeing, for coffee, or for a swim.

Hugging the SP358 through Castro (during the summer peak traffic is diverted south of Castro to Marittima and back out at Cala dell’Acquaviva), Porto Tricase (where another one way system will divert you away from the coast towards Tricase ; just follow it – you will return) and by Marina Serra and il Ciolo until the lighthouse at Leuca announces your arrival. Continue to the lungomare. The old port and the art nouveau villas that line the seafront open up along the way.

Lidos sit on wooden platforms along Leuca’s lungomare. Be sure to take some ciabatte – rubber soled shoes – for swimming. These are a necessity for taking to the crystal clear waters lapping over jagged rocks peppered with sea urchins, whose spines present another hazard to the bare footed.

Grab some frittura at Lido AlbaChiara. There you can enjoy the view over the azure waters while watching local teenagers snorkelling for urchin and polpo to be served at the next meal.

That’s the thing about Santa Maria di Leuca. It all comes back to the sea.

Getting to Santa Cesarea Terme from | Otranto 18 km | Lecce  50 km | Gallipoli 50 km | Ostuni 130 km.

With extra toppings

The drive itself is only 50 minutes, but we prefer to amble and explore along the way.

Sitting on a plateau that plunges into the sea Santa Cesarea Terme will remind you of Polignano a Mare. Bathe in the thermal waters, or enjoy the north African ambiance of the Palazzo Sticchi.

Buy the freshest street food in Castro. Locally caught fried fish from the friggitorie, served up in cartoccio accompanied by a small bottle of chilled white or rosé wine. Perched on cliffs 100m above the sea Castro is Puglia’s balcony over the Adriatic.

At peak summer traffic is diverted south of Castro to Marittima, brining you back out at Cala dell’Acquaviva, a picturesque secret bathing spot.

Stop off for a coffee at Porto Tricase. Watch the bathers taking a cooling dip in the green waters of the small beach at the little harbour, home to the town’s fishing boats.

Caletta del Ciolo some 8km before Leuca is a coastal ravine for hiking, cliff-diving and swimming with scenic views from the bridge over the canyon. Parking can be challenging, and the bathing space is limited, but the views are stunning. Another of Salento’s secret swimming places.

Supersize me

Instead of a day trip, spread this over two days.

Stay the night in Marina Serra. This allows an evening detour to nearby Tricase for a pre-dinner aperitivo at Farmacia Balboa. The old town pharmacy sits on a small piazza and has been sympathetically transformed into a cool cocktail bar retaining many original features. Its co-owner Dame Helen Mirren has a summer house in the neighbouring town of Tiggiano.

A couple of doors down is the Castel di Salve wine shop (their winery/cantina is in the wonderfully named neighbouring town on the other side – Depressa; though we are sure it’s not at all). They have great locally produced wines that taste of the Salento sun. Nothing brings a smile to our face like buying a 15 litre box of their Santi Medici Rosso negroamaro to take home.

For dinner Locanda Del Levante around the corner is our choice.

Be sure to get up in time to watch the sun rise over the rocky shelves that surround Marina Serra’s swimming basin along with the locals taking their daily early morning constitutional.

Puglia itinerary #2 | Valle d’Itria

Many visitors plan their Puglia itinerary around the Valle d’Itria. The drive through the Valle d’Itria is quite beautiful. Rolling olive groves, the white cities. There is no specific route required, it is an incidental bonus when driving between Ostuni to Cisternino and Locorotondo, then onward Francavilla Fontana and Alberobello. From Alberobello it is worth driving over to Monopoli for the views coming downhill.

To help plan a Puglia itinerary focussed around the Valle d’Itria Keep in mind a couple of things.

Distances | exploring with ease

If you have a car most of Puglia’s best known destinations can be covered by day trips from a central base, without changing accommodation every day or two. Many of Puglia’s towns, especially around the Valle d’Itria, are close together. For example, Ostuni, Cisternino, Locorotondo, and Martina Franca/Alberobello are each about 20 minutes apart by car. The same goes for Ostuni to Ceglie Messapica.

Driving from Ostuni to Monopoli takes just 30 minutes, and Monopoli is only 10 minutes from Polignano a Mare. We often enjoy a full day visiting Alberobello in the morning, Monopoli for lunch and stroll around the old town, and then Polignano for an afternoon gelato and beach visit followed by an aperitivo in the old town, all without feeling rushed. The short distances make it easy to explore multiple towns in a single day.

While some travellers opt to move between towns, staying a night in each, it can become a hassle packing up and checking in repeatedly. A smart alternative is to use a central base like Ostuni for 3-4 nights and explore the surrounding towns at a more relaxed pace – just as Puglia is meant to be enjoyed.

Insider tip | Longer stays can save on accommodation costs. Some accommodation like Ostuni’s popular Apartment Q40 offer up to 10% discount on stays of 7 nights or more.

Take a look at our Essential Puglia, Day Trip Planning and Puglia’s Best Road Trips companion guide to make the most economical use of time and distance.

Puglia’s white walled cities | ✔️✔️and ✔️

When planning, remember that towns like Locorotondo, Cisternino, and Martina Franca offer similar experiences in terms of setting, atmosphere and eating. You might not need to visit each one, especially if your time is limited.

Puglia itinerary #3 | Bari to Vieste

Distance | 175 km | via SS16

We head north to the Gargano. Situated within the spur of Italy’s boot, it’s a huge forest, with a stunning coast, amazing beaches and the trabucchi. Fishing structures resembling steam punk North Sea oil rigs.

If the Valle d’Itria is the most visited part of our region then the Gargano is the most overlooked. Rising up in the distance as you pass along the salt flats of Margherita di Savoia it feels very different to the rest of Puglia – albeit with similar accents of olive groves and azure waters.

The drive through the ancient oak and beech forest will offer glimpses of a dramatic coastline of coves and caves cut into the white limestone cliffs and long sandy beaches.

Route

As this is a two and a half hour drive, we recommend making the most of this by staying the night in Vieste and returning to Bari after a late lunch in Peschici.

Take the SS16 | 2h29m route shown rather than the default A14 – Autostrada Adriatica (E55) route. This avoids the €6,80 toll and is a more interesting drive through Margherita di Savoia and along the coast.

Route | SS16 | take exit Barletta Nord | merge onto via Foggia and onto SP141 for Margherita di Savoia | when approaching Manfredonia follow the signs to Mattinata/Vieste and merge onto the Strada Statale 89 Garganica/SS89 | stay on Strada Statale 89 Garganica/SS89 to Vieste.

With extra toppings

Stop off in Trani (50 minutes from the centre of Bari) for a coffee and pastry. Head to the Porto di Trani (the Trani Sant’Angelo exit) for coffee and a pastry and a walk around the old port with its picturesque cathedral. Or you can lunch at the Michelin starred Quintessenza Ristorante. Attentive service, without being overly fussy. Food excellence is reflected by price, though not prohibitive | Via Lionelli 62, 76125 Trani BT | +39 0883 880948

Continue the drive through the salt flats of Margherita di Savoia, pull into the side to see the flamingos.

Eat Vieste: try the pepata di cozze (peppered mussels). Served in the shell and a delicious broth it may look similar to moules mariniere, albeit without cream. Unlike moules mariniere the wine and garlic do not overpower the broth, enriched by the olive oil and beautifully fragranced by the black pepper.

Alternatively choose a paposcia from the range of paposce on the menu. Similar to a panini but with a crispy wood oven baked focaccia, made exclusively from olive oil from the ancient olive oil trees of the Vico del Gargano. Named after the slipper shaped focaccia this speciality of the Gargano region going back to the 16th century.

Beach

Spend the afternoon on the beach. Vieste has two long stretches of sandy beach, either side. Both have a selection of private lido clubs and public beach.

The longer stretch is of beach is on the southeast side of the town, where Pizzomunno stands watch. You can park along the lungomare (approximately 1€ /hour). On the northwest side is a shorter but deeper beachfront, again filled with lido clubs. A huge car park sits between the beachfront and the hotels (approximately 1€ /hour).

Peschici

A 30-minute drive along the coast, north of Vieste.

Along the coast of rocky beaches and translucent turquoise waters, between Peschici and Vieste, are the trabucchi.

These … “strange fishing machines, all composed of planks and beams similar to giant spiders” stand like a cross between steampunk North sea oil rigs and sail-less ships. Some double as restaurants where fresh fish and seafood are served up with cold beer, bread and slices of lemon.

Spend the morning on one of the beautiful beaches either side of Peschici before heading to Trabucco da Mimì, a must for lunch (booking essential); the food, the location – one of Puglia’s best dining experiences. We suggest booking a terrace table for 1.30pm. Don’t think about finishing until after 3pm.

Alternatively you can eat at their bar area, though this is a wonderful spot to watch the sunset. Al Trabucco also has amazing accommodation. Serviced cabins. We stayed there on one of our visits. The location is exceptional.

After lunch be sure on the way back to Bari be sure to stop off at Azienda Agricola da Rocco.

It’s a stall on the side of the road just 5 or so minutes from the trabucco, en route towards Vieste.

Rocco has amazing cheese, garlic and chilli peppers. Not to say jams, preserves, delicious stuffed chillis and amazing chilli paste. We filled up, and also sampled his caciocavallo, wine, olives…

Tell him we sent you.

More | our visit to Trabucco da Mimì

Plan the perfect Puglia itinerary | Boat trips

We often hire a boat either at Castro Marina or from Santa Maria di Leuca. These allow you to coast along the coast, for a view and scenery we don’t see from the road.

We use Nautica Red Coral at Castro and Piccola Nautica in Leuca.

We enjoy the Leuca hire more because it let us explore the Adriatic, some of the caves before we head up the Ionian and a stop at Torre Vado. We had more variety and diversity of coast to see when we took the boat from Leuca.

As well as boat rentals they both do boat tours, if you are not confident about being your own captain. One place we definitely do a boat tour is when we visit Vieste. We did the Desirèe imbarco Tour Grotte Marine which took us just beyond the spectacular Faraglioni di Baia delle Zagare. Depending on the sea conditions, the boat navigates some tight spots to get into caves and stops off (usually at Spiaggia di Vignanotica) for swimming.

Plan the perfect Puglia itinerary | Walking trips

Porto Selvaggio

A little less than 20km north of Gallipoli, Porto Selvaggio is one of Puglia’s most beautiful nature reserves. Covering 1100 hectares it is thick with pine forest.

Our tour took a little under 4 hours, from Masseria Torre Nova down to the main bay at Spiaggia di Porto Selvaggio (a busy and popular beach, despite being all rock and pebble) following the coast up to Torre Uluzzo. The terrain becomes a little more challenging around Grotta del Cavallo and up to Torre Uluzzo with a steep ascent, climbing around some rocks.

Sensible shoes (trainers) and long trousers to protect legs against the scrub and thorns you will trek through are recommended.

More information on tours with Giacomo De Mitri can be found on his facebook page. Tours are in Italian.

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Puglia Itinerary | Bases, Day Trips & Drive Times

At-a-Glance: Quick Picks
Bari is ideal for Matera, Alberobello, Monopoli, Polignano a Mare, and Trani.
Polignano a Mare or Monopoli both give quick access to each other plus Alberobello, Locorotondo, Cisternino, and Ostuni.
Ostuni works well for the Valle d’Itria towns, Brindisi, and nearby villages, with Carovigno and Martina Franca offering similar reach.
Lecce, Gallipoli, and Otranto each cover the Salento coast and inland gems like Galatina and Nardò.
Taranto, and Vieste make strong bases for their surrounding clusters.
Otranto is perfect for the full Otranto–Santa Maria di Leuca coastal drive.

Base	Day Trips & Pairings	Approx. Drive Times
Bari	Matera, Alberobello, Monopoli, Polignano a Mare, Trani	35–50 mins (Trani 50 mins)
Polignano a Mare	Monopoli, Alberobello, Locorotondo, Ostuni	10–40 mins
Monopoli	Polignano a Mare, Alberobello, Locorotondo, Cisternino, Ostuni	10–35 mins
Ostuni	Cisternino, Locorotondo, Alberobello, Ceglie Messapica, Carovigno, San Vito dei Normanni, Brindisi	10–40 mins
Cisternino	Locorotondo, Ostuni, Alberobello, Ceglie Messapica	10–25 mins
Carovigno	Ostuni, Cisternino, Ceglie Messapica, San Vito dei Normanni, Brindisi	10–30 mins
Martina Franca	Locorotondo, Alberobello, Cisternino, Ceglie Messapica, Grottaglie	10–30 mins
Lecce	Otranto, Gallipoli, Galatina, Santa Maria di Leuca	30–60 mins
Gallipoli	Lecce, Santa Maria di Leuca, Otranto, Porto Selvaggio, Galatina, Nardò	20–60 mins
Grottaglie	Taranto, Martina Franca, Ceglie Messapica	20–30 mins
Taranto	Grottaglie, Manduria, Pulsano beaches	20–40 mins
Vieste	Peschici, Trabucchi coast road, forest drives	20–40 mins
Otranto	Lecce, Gallipoli, Santa Maria di Leuca, Castro, Porto Badisco, Caletta del Ciolo	20–60 mins
Santa Maria di Leuca	Otranto–Leuca coastal drive, Castro, Porto Tricase, Caletta del Ciolo	Coastal route full day

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